The Aluminum Asylum

Building an Original Bluebird Two Piece Door into a One Piece Door
I used the directions from the Eagle One Piece Door as a basic guideline for the BlueBird door.

Because our original door was in such good shape and needed no repairs made to it due to rust. We decided to reuse the door. The two piece door took up a lot of room and we couldn't come up with a good way to lock it. I had gotten a couple lengths of (never used) steel landscape edging off Freecycle.org. It was very simple to do. David removed the door by unscrewing a pile of little screws that held the door onto the piano hinge. Then he trimmed down the piano hinge using a cut off wheel and my small hand held trim router. We also stripped all the hardware and trim off the door. We had several sets of old door hinges so we used them to hinge the door. We laid the door, face side down, on a flat surface and used a straight edge and shims to make sure the door was completely flat. We cut a strip of polyiso foam board insulation to fit tightly inside the groove between the two door panels.We measured and trimmed the length of the landscape edging to fit the door. Then we clamped the trimmed edging to the door so that it wouldn't move. We drilled small pilot holes thru the edging and the door. We reused the tiny screws that were used to attach the piano hinge to the door. Then we rehung the door. A chain connected to threaded eye bolts will prevent the wind from catching the door and tearing up the hinges. As you can see the landscape edging just fit between the two panels of glass.


       



Screening the Original Bus Windows

After much thought I finally figured out a simple way of putting screens on the windows. First off, I didn't want the screens outside. We have screens on the exterior of the Class C. They have come loose while traveling although I have yet to lose one. But I have seen lots of RV that had lost window screens while traveling. My other thing was by keeping them inside, they will be less susceptible to damage from tree limbs and stay cleaner (I'm NOT a domestic diva!). The bus windows will still be able to open and close without rubbing on the fiberglass screen. I bought everything used to make the screens from Lowe's.
The wire that I used to make the pins is just a springy wire that is used to hold faced or unfaced batts of fiberglass insulation between floor joists. You can find them with the insulation accessories. I used a stick-on "D" weatherstripping to prevent the screen from rattling and to prevent creepy crawlies from entering.

  

I used a drill bit that was just ever so slightly bigger than the wire that I was using. I held the hole close to the bottom edge of the plastic corner.


My pliers have a 3/8" finely grooved section for gripping things. By holding the edge of the wire right at the last of the fine grooves, I create a bend that is 1/2" long.




This is the 1/2" bend in a longer piece of wire made before I cut it to length.





I screwed a small piece of scrap screen frame in place. The hook on the pin hooks over the edge and the spline track helps hold the metal wire still while I cut it to length with a hack saw.




I used 16" long insulation supports (spring steel) to make the pins for the screens to pivot on. the are 1 3/8" overall length with a 1/2" hook at the top. The hook is sitting on a jig I made to cut the metal screen framing... a mini miter box.


The hook on the pin is 1/2 inch. The 1/2 inch long machine screw will capture it. The washer and nut hold the hook in place preventing it from moving when I open/close the screen. If I ever need to remove the screen completely from the window, for something like cleaning or repair, all I have to do is remove the washer/nut and pull the pin out.

             

A screen frame clip keeps the screen from dropping open.


The completed screen installed in the closed position.